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A new report by Toxic Links, an Indian environmental research and advocacy organisation based in New Delhi, in collaboration with the Environmental Defense Fund, a global non-profit headquartered in New York, has raised the alarm that Sabarmati is one of five rivers across India found to contain unacceptable levels of nonylphenol (NP), a chemical linked to “exposure to carcinogenic outcomes, including prostate cancer in men and breast cancer in women.”

While noting that high NP levels were also found in the Cooum and Adyar rivers in Chennai, Buddha Nullah in Ludhiana, and Bandi in Pali, Rajasthan, the report adds that NP is “an endocrine-disrupting chemical (EDC) that adversely affects the hormonal system, can mimic oestrogen (the main female sex hormone), and can cause developmental abnormalities in embryos, foetuses, and children.”

Alarmingly, researchers collected three types of samples from the Sabarmati—surface water, sediments, and mixed isomers—from two broad locations. One was the Sabarmati riverfront area upstream, an 11.25-kilometre stretch where the otherwise dry riverbed is replenished with “clean” water via the Narmada canal, which originates at the Sardar Sarovar dam about 230 kilometres south in Gujarat. 

The second location was the “downstream” area after the riverfront ends at the Vasna barrage. For the next 64 kilometres, up to the Gulf of Khambhat, Sabarmati is known to receive mostly untreated industrial effluents, including from textile units.

Organisations assisting in sample collection included Paryavaran Mitra, led by well-known environmentalist Mahesh Pandya. 

Titled Toxic Threads: Assessing Nonylphenol Contamination in Indian Textiles & the Environment, the 54-page report presents information on nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs), widely used as surfactants and detergents in textile manufacturing. According to the report, these chemicals “can remain as residues in finished products” and “during washing, they are released into the environment, where they degrade into nonylphenols (NP), known for their toxicity, persistence, bioaccumulation, and endocrine-disrupting properties.”

The report states that 40 branded and local textile products were collected from retail shops and online platforms across 10 major textile hubs in India. Additionally, surface water, sediment, and effluent samples were collected from upstream and downstream locations of rivers flowing through major textile hubs. The samples were analysed in a National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories (NABL)-accredited facility to determine NP concentrations in textiles and NP levels in environmental matrices.

According to the report, “NPE concentrations in contaminated textiles ranged from 8.7 to 957 mg/kg, with 13 out of 15 products exceeding the European Union (EU) regulatory limit of 100 mg/kg. The highest NPE concentration (957 mg/kg) was found in female hosiery innerwear. Additionally, 10 out of 15 contaminated products were innerwear (both men’s and women’s), with NPE levels ranging from 22.2 to 957 mg/kg. 60% of baby and children’s products tested positive for NPEs.”

Regarding environmental contamination, the report states, “A total of 33 water samples were collected from different rivers and effluent discharge points in various cities of India.

These sites were selected based on the locations of textile industrial hubs that have reported the discharge of treated industrial effluents into water bodies.” It adds, “NP was detected in surface water collected from five major rivers near textile hubs: Cooum River (Chennai), Adyar River (Chennai), Buddha Nullah (Ludhiana, Punjab), Bandi River (Rajasthan), and Sabarmati River (Ahmedabad).”

The report records “The highest NP concentration in surface water was in the Cooum River (70 µg/L), followed by the Adyar River (60 µg/L) and the Bandi River (40 µg/L).” While the Sabarmati River recorded 7.9 µg/L NP in surface water, significantly lower than the others, its sediment samples showed 360 µg/kg NP and 810 µg/kg NP mixed isomers. A similar trend was observed in Buddha Nullah.

For reference, a microgram (µg) is one-millionth of a gram (1 µg = 0.000001 g), while a litre (L) is a unit of volume. Thus, µg/L measures concentration, indicating the amount of a substance in a given volume of liquid, such as water or blood.

The report regrets that “NP detected in downstream locations, absent in upstream points, strongly suggests point-source pollution from textile industries.” While several countries have taken proactive measures, India remains behind in addressing NP and NPE pollution. The European Union, Japan, China, the United States, and South Korea have recognised the risks associated with these chemicals and implemented regulations to restrict their use in various products, including textiles. Additionally, the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) has designated NP as a chemical of global concern.

Highlighting that “NP concentrations in Indian surface waters significantly exceed international water quality standards,” the report cites Canada’s Council of Ministers of the Environment (CCME), which has set a freshwater quality guideline for NP at just 1.0 µg/L to protect aquatic life. 

The report underscores that “elevated NP levels in Indian rivers indicate a significant ecological risk, emphasizing the need for stringent regulatory standards to control industrial discharges and prevent further environmental degradation.” Given the notable NP levels in textiles, water, and sediment—particularly in industrial regions such as Chennai (Cooum and Adyar Rivers), Rajasthan (Bandi River), Punjab (Buddha Nullah), and Ahmedabad (Sabarmati River)—the contamination of these ecosystems raises concerns about NP’s potential infiltration into drinking water supplies, increasing public health risks.

The report argues, “The absence of regulatory limits on NP in environmental matrices and the lack of national bans on its use in textiles highlight a critical policy gap that urgently needs to be addressed.” Furthermore, the absence of stringent measures in India creates a potential discrepancy in trade practices.

It warns, “With other countries implementing regulations and restrictions, Indian textile products containing toxic chemicals may face barriers or trade limitations in the global market. This could hinder the competitiveness of the Indian textile industry and affect its reputation in terms of sustainability and responsible manufacturing practices.”

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(Rajiv Shah is a Senior Journalist. This report first appeared in www.counterview.in)